Manufacture of shoes



April 5, l938.- w. l. GILLETTE ET AL 2,112,884

MANUFACTURE oF sHoEs Filed Nov. 5, 1935 v2 Sheets-Sheet 2 l @a WM@ 'w'NV Nr 5 Patented Apr. 1938 UNITED STATES MANUFAGT'UREv 0F SHOES-lN'Valter I. Gillette and Albert W. Dusseault, lHav-v assignors toUnited Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of NewJersey Application November 5,

6 Claims.

'I'his invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of shoes andis herein illustrated with particular reference to its application tothe manufacture of so-called cross-strap sandals.

A cross-strap sandal as ordinarily constructed comprises a sole and aplurality of cross-straps, vthe latter being secured at their oppositeends to the sole and being adapted to extend over portions of the footso as toretain the sandal 10 on the foot. As a sandal of this type isworn the,

movements of the foot impose more or less severe strains upon thelocalities where the ends of the straps are secured to the soleand,although various expedients have been adopted for holding the strap endsin place, the holding means is quite likely to give way at those pointswhich are sub jected to the greatest strains. v

Objects of the present invention are to overcome the above-mentionedinherent weakness in the construction of vstrap sandals and to provideother improvements in the manufacture of shoes and sandals.

With the above objects in view, the invention in one aspect provides amethod of making sandals which, as herein exemplified, involves thepassing of successive portions of acontinuous strip of cross-strapmaterial in crosswise directions above and beneath a sole from onelateral edge portion of the sole to the other, therebyV providing anintegrally connected series of crossstrap loops for holding the sole ona foot. This method may advantageously be practiced by passing orwinding a continuous strip several times over a sole member, for-examplean insole, on a last, the insole preferably having formed therein aseries of marginal openings for receiving the strip as itis beingapplied and thus determining the locations of the various turns yor,loops of the strip which are to take the place of the separatecross-straps of a sandal of the usual construction. As illustratedherein' a single strip maybe employed to provide a series. of integrallyconnected cross-strap loops in the forepart of ai sandal while anotherstrip may be employed to constitute an integrally connected series ofloops or straps in the heel portion of the sandal, or, if desired, theloops or strips inl both the foreparts and heel portions of the sandalmay be formed as integral portions of a single strip. 'Advantageouslythe ends of the one or more strips employed in the construction of thecross-strap loops will be located at points where the loop structurewill be subjected to the least strain, the arrangement at all eventsbeing such that the ends of the strip will not be located in thevicinity of the ball line y1935, serial No. 48,346

(Cl. Sii-11.5)

or in thevvicinity of the heel breast line where 'the strains are thegreatest. ,As illustrated, the

` hereinafter described and specically pointed out in the claims.

'I'he invention will be explained with reference to the accompanyingdrawings, in which Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an insole preparedfor use in making a strap sandal;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary perspective view of an insole showing itprepared in a different way, and illustrating a modication of the mannerof preparing it for use in making a sandal;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary perspective view of` an insole, illustrating afurther modication in the manner of preparing it for use in making asandal;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of a sandal in course 'of construction;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a completed sandal; Y

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional View taken substantially along the lineVI-VI of Fig. 4;

Fig. l is a fragmentary cross-sectional view of a sandal in which' theoutsole is attached by means lof Goodyear stitching;

Fig. 8 is a similar cross-sectional view of a sandal in which theoutsole is attached by means of through-and-through stitching; and

Figs. 9 and 10 are perspective views of sandals of modifiedconstruction.

In. practicing our improved method of making sandals, as exemplied inFigs. 1, 4, 5 and 6, an insole I4 is cut tov a desired marginal contour,for example, by means of a clicking die and, in order to preparetheinsole to receive the cross-straps, a plurality of elongated marginalopenings or slots I6 (Fig. 1) are provided in its forepart and aplurality of similar marginal openings or slots I8 are provided in theheel portion of the insole. The slots I6 and I8 may be formed in anysuitvable manner, for example, by means of punches carried by theclicking die. As indicated at 2li in Fig. 4, the marginal portion of itsouter surface is roughed to prepare it for the cement attachment of anoutsole thereto.v The slotted insole I4 is temporarily secured to thebottom of a last 22, as by means of tacks, one of which is shown at 24.In making the sandal shown in Figs. 4 55 through the slot i6c.

4tensioned again over the upper portion of the |6a,' thenceacross thebottom of the insole, and

through the slot I6b. looped at 64 over that portion of the strip whichand 5, the cross-straps at the forepart are formed as portions of asingle continuous strip or ribbon 26 of suitable cross-strap materialwhile the cross-strapping in the heel portion of the sandal is formedfrom another continuous strip 26 of the same material as the strip 26.While each of the strips 26 and 2,6 is shown as being in the form of aribbon, it need not' be of such shape and might, for example, .be roundin cross-section, in which case round holes would belformed in theinsoles for receiving the strips.

In applying the strip 26, as exemplified in Figs.

4 and 5, one end of the strip is temporarily secured to thebottom oroutersurface of the insole I6 substantially in the central portion ofits forepart by any convenient means, such as the tack 36. 'The strip 26is then threaded through the 'adjacentl slot- |641 in the insole,tensioned over the upper portion of the last 22, passed through the sloti6b and across the bottom of the insole in the vicinity Aoi! the ballline and threaded Thence the strip 26 is last, after which it is passedthrough the slot |6d, across the bottom of the insole, through slot I6e,and again over the last. The strip 26 thence through the slot I6f,across the bottom 'of the insole, through slot |60, over the last,

through slot i671, and thence part way across the insolef to the vpointwhere its trailing end is temporarily secured to the insole by the tack32. 'I'he strip 26-has thus been passed four times over the last,thereby providing four cross-strap loops 66 which vary in length asdetermined by the shape of the last and which are formed as integralportions of a single continuous stripr instead of being formedasseparate straps each independently secured at its opposite ends to thesole of the sandal as in the usual prior-art construction. Thoseportions 66 of the strip 26 which extend across the bottom of the insoleconnect the cross-strap portions or loops 66 in such a manner that thelatter cannot be pulled loose from the insole, there being no ends saveonly those at the beginning -and ending of the strip.

At the heel end of the sandal the manner of application of the strip '26may diner from that of the strip 26 at' the forepart, first, in` thatthe opposite ends of the strip 26, instead'of being located beneath-theinsole, are located above the-sole to serve as ankle straps for thesandal. In applying the strip 26'o'ne end portion 60, after having beenfirst temporarily secured by means of a tack 62 to the outer side of theheel portionof the last, is passed rearwardly around the heel end of thelast and through the slot Thence the strip 26 is is held tothe aide ofthe last by the tack az,

thence downwardly through slot/fle; across the bottom of the insole andupwardlyhrough slot I6d. Thence the strip islaid in the form of a a'loop 66 close to the-inner side of .the last, and thereafter it ispassed downwardlyl throughslot |6e, acro the'bottom of theinsole,through slot I6faround theheel end ofthe last, and

iinally it is .passed through the loop 66, and

around thecone of the last'to a point where itstrailingend 66 is adaptedby meansjof a series of holes 66 to be engaged by a buckle 62' which issecured to the opposite end portionj 66 of the strip and thus .tocooperate with the pi`' tion 66 toeonstitute an ankle strap. -1 Y Thus,the in the heel portion MacKenzie.

respectively, serve to hold the cross-strapping securely in place in thevicinities of the ball line and the heel breast line where thecross-strapping is subjected to the greatest strains when the sandal ison the foot. The strips 26 and 26 having been applied as abovedescribed, the usual shank stiiener 68 is laid upon the insole, theopposite end portions .of the stiffener being inserted beneath thecrossvagainst accidental displacement prior to the completion of theshoe and the' ends of the stiener are prevented from rubbing against theoutsole in a manner to cause squeaking when the shoe is being worn. Acoating of cement, conf ventionally indicated at 60, is next applied tothe roughened marginal portion of the insole. If, as in the presentinstance, the outsole is to be cement-attached to the insole, pyroxylincement may be used and the latter may conveniently be applied by meansof a brush, as indicated at 62. More advantageously,`however, the cementmay be applied by means of a shoe bottom cementing machine, such forexample as that dis- Yclosed ina copending application for United StatesLetters Patent, Serial No. 754,648, led November 24, 1934, in the nameof W. L.

The cement as applied to the insole will cover the opposite end portionsof the cross-stretches of the strips 26 and 26 which extend across thebottom of the insole and will fill in the slots around those portions ofthe strips which extend therethrough, as indicated at 66 inKFig. 7, andthus, after the cement has become set,\the portions of the strips whichare located in the vicinity of 'the slots will be attac'hed to Atheinsole and securely held in place. The tacks which secure the insole tothe last and the tacks 66 and 62 which temporarily secured inplace theopposite endsof the strip 26 are re-I moved before theV outsole isapplied.

The outsole 66 is prepared for cement attach- .ment to the insole in theusual way by roughing its marginal portion and applying cement thereto.Advantagecusly, the roughened margins of a quantity of outsoles may beprecemented and as each outsole is to be usedthe dried cement thereonmay be activated by means of a solvent which m'ay be applied by means ofa brush or more. advantageously by means of a solvent applying machine,such forexample` as that disclosed in a copending application for UnitedStates Letters' Patent, Serial No.` 692,307, illed October 5, 1933, inthe name'of C.,A. Newhall,

nowi Patent Number 2,042,479, granted June 2,

' ment of the outsole it may be found desirable to apply a suitablefiller to the forepart of the insole, as indicated by dotted lines at 66in Fig. 4. v

.After the outsole has been attached the last is removed.; a heel 66 isattached and a suitable 75 l-at the heel portion of thelast. The striplsock lining 'I0 is'applied to the upper surface oi the insole.

In addition to being attached by means of cement the outsole 65 may alsobe secured to the insole by means of Goodyear stitching, as indicated at12 in Fig, '1.l Ordinarily, however, when such stitching is to be used,no pyroxylin cement will be employed between the soles, but the outsolewill be temporarily held in place by means oi' rubber cement or latex,care being taken to see that the rubber cement covers at least theopposite end portions of the cross-stretches oi the straps 26 and 28which extend across the insole so as to assist in holding these strapsin place. Also, as indicated in Fig. 8, the outsole may be attached tothe insole by means of through-andthrough stitches 13 such, for example,as lock stitches or chain stitches. l

The insole may be provided with open notches I1 (Fig. 2) in its edgeportions for receiving the cross-straps instead of closed openings suchas the slots I6 already described. 'Ihe provision of open notches, suchas the notches I1, is advantageous in that it enablesthe cross-strippingto be wound around lthe last and insole without having to be threadedthrough openingsin the insole. v

Alternatively, as illustrated in Fig. 8, the crossstraps may merely bepassed over the edge of the insole, in which case no notches, slots orother openings need be provided. In cases where no openings of any sortare provided for receiving the cross-stripping suitable marks may bemade, if desired, upon the insole, as indicated at I9 in Fig. 3, toinchcate the points where the stripping should cross the edges of thein-l sole in order to insure proper location of the the cross-strapswhich extend across one an-v other above the insole may be securedtogether, either iixedly by means of rivets, stitches orl the like, asindicated at 14 in Fig. 5, or adiustably as, for example, by means ofslide buckles, as indicated at 16 in the forepart of the sandal.

The cbilds sandals shown in Figs. 9 and 10 embody modications of theabove-described arrangement of cross-strapping, Fig. 9 showing theopposite end portions of the strip which constitutes the cross-strappinglocated between the soles of the sandal. In the construction shown inFig. 9, in order to provide for removably securing the heel portion ofthe sandal on the foot, a Vseparate ankle strap is provided in the formof a exible lacing 'I8 which, as shown, is tied at 'i9 to one or' theside loops of the heel strapping and is adapted to be tied to theopposite side loopof the heel strapping after the sandal has been placedupon the foot.

In the construction shown in Fig. 10 a single continuous stripconstitutes the cross-strapping forepart strap82, thence across thebottomrofv the shank portion of the insole at 84, after which it ismanipulated to provide the cross-strapping" thence extends forwardlyacross the bottom of the shank portion of the last at 88, crossing theportion 84, and thence the-strip is manipulated to provide the forepartcross-straps 90 and 92, the trailing end of the strip being secured at94 to the bottom of the insole.

In Figs. 9 and 10 the outsole is indicated at 650 and the sock lining at100. As already indicement and such attachment of the outsole isindicated at 120.

In applying the strip which isto constitute theI cross-straps it is notessentialthat the insole be placed on a last and the strip wound aroundthe insole and last as hereinbefore described, inasmuch as satisfactoryresults may be obtained by winding the strip or strips around an insoleoff the last so as to provide the desired cross-strap structure(threading the strip'or strips through the openings, if any, in theinsole), and thereafter inserting the lastl so that it will bepositioned relatively to the cross-strap structure as indicatedin Fig.4, thereby conforming the crossstraps to the contour of the last.Preferably the opposite ends of the strip or` strips would not besecured in place until after the last had been inserted thereby enablingthe strip or strips to slip more or less through the openings in theinsoleso that the various cross-strap loops may the more readily adjustthemselves or be adjusted by the operator into conformity with the shapeof the last. Finally the strip ends will be pulled tight andy secured inplace so as to maintain the adjustment of the straps.

Having described our invention, what we claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

l. That improvement in methods of `making sandals which consists inproviding a, series of open notches in the opposite edges of a sole, andwinding a continuous strip of cross-strap material crosswse around thesole while entering portions of the strip laterally into said notches tolocate the successive portions of the strip so as to provide a series ofcross-strap loops in desired 'locations at one side of the soleconnected by a series of cross-stretches at the opposite side of thesole.

2. A sandal comprising an insole having a plu.-

rality of open notches in its opposite lateral edges, a continuous stripwound crosswse around the insole and extending4 through said notches,the portions of said strip at the upper -side oi the insoiefbeingadapted to serve as cross-straps for holdingv the sandal on a foot, andan outsole xedly secured to the-insole and to the portions of said stripat the lower side of the insole.

3. ifiv cross-strap sandal comprising an insole, an outsole, a heel,forepart cross-straps connected by strips formed integrally therewithand extending crosswise between the soles, one of said strips being`located in the vicinity of'the ball line, cross-strapping at the heelof the sandal including strips extending crosswse beneath the insole,one of said strips being located in the vicinity of the heel breastline, and a shank stiffener located between the soies and having one endportion interposed between said ball line strip and the insole and theother end portion interposed between said heel breast line strip and theinsole.

. v4. That improvement in methods o! making sandals which consists inwinding a continuous strip of cross-strap material a plurality or timesaround an insole thereby providing a plurality ot cross-strap loops atthe upper side of the sole and a series of cross-stretches integrallyconnesting said loops at the lower side of the sole,

inserting a last between said loops and the insole and conforming theloops to the contour of the last, securing the ends oi said strip' inplace by temporary fastenings, cementing said strip to the insole,removing said fastenings, and attaching an outsole.

5. That improvement in methods of making vsandals which consists inproviding la'series of open notches in the opposite edges of an insole,placing the insole upon a last, winding a continuous strip o1'cross-strap material crosswise around the insole -and the last whileentering portions of the strip laterally into said notches to locatesuccessive portions of the strip so as to provide a series ofcross-strap loops in desired locations at one side, of the insoleconnected by a series of cross-stretches at the opposite side of theinsole, applying a stripe of cement to sandals which consists inproviding a series of open notches in the opposite edges of an insole,

placing the insole upon a last, winding a continuous strip ofcross-strap material vcrosswise around the insole and the last whileentering portions oi' the strip laterally into said notches to locatesuccessive portions of the strip so as to provide a series oi'cross-strap loops in desired locations at one side ot the sole connectedby a series o! cross-stretches at the opposite side of the sole, andattaching an outsole by cementing it to the insole and to saidcross-stretches o! said strip.

A WALTER I. GIILETI'E.

ALBERT W. DUSSEAULT.

